What it’s like to live in rural Spain: an expat’s year in Andalucía

Finding beauty in the everyday

Life in el campo is all about noticing the small things – the blossom on almond trees, the changing colours of the mountains, and the silence broken only by birdsong.

“Spring starts early in Spain, and at the start of February the almond blossom all around us is a fabulous sight. Sometimes pink, sometimes white, and always emanating a beautifully sweet smell. The bees love it too… It will be a good honey year this year!”

Even a walk to the neighbouring village can feel magical – with a few challenges along the way:

“Walking through the olive groves is also an option, but not so good when there’s been rain, because the heavy clay soil sticks to your boots and you lug an additional 3kg with every step. Good for a real workout, but generally I tend to stick to the track.”

Seasons in the countryside

Rural Andalucía is a land of extremes – a place of blazing summers, crisp winters, and glorious transitions in between.

Summer: surviving the heat

“We thought we’d feel the same about the long hot summer days now we live here more permanently. But it is different… This is not simply two weeks of hot summer sunshine, it is continuous heat for three or four months.”

Marijke and Hilary quickly learned how to adapt:

• Close shutters to keep rooms cool
  
   
• Avoid the heat of the day between 3 pm and 7 pm
  
   
• Take a siesta and enjoy the evenings outdoors
  
   
• Swap hot coffee for café con hielo (iced coffee)
  
   

“We’ve started to appreciate early mornings – which is a miracle for those who know me well! But it’s such a fantastic time of the day when everything is cool and pleasant, and the rising sun colours the house a soft pink.”

Autumn and winter: quieter but magical

Rains fill the dry riverbeds, olive harvest begins, and the landscape changes.

“Despite the occasional very heavy storms, we generally lack water in our part of Spain. There is a pantano (lake) nearby, and during the summer you can almost see the level of the water drop each day.”

Even the mud and puddles can bring unexpected charm:

“One morning, when we were setting off to do some grocery shopping, we saw a car driving towards us at great speed… And when the car came nearer, it put its blue lights on and started its siren. Not helpful when you are trying to reverse on a winding, narrow track!”

Village life and fiestas

For many expats, village life is the heart of the rural Spanish experience. For Marijke, Fuente del Conde became a warm and welcoming second home.

“Every year on 1, 2 and 3rd May, the village hosts a wonderful three-day fiesta… There are sports competitions (including shooting at balloons with a catapult), giant paella cooking and eating, and dancing every night until dawn.”

The highlight of the fiesta is the romería, a lively religious procession through the streets:

“The statue is decked with flowers and carried down to the village by a group of local women. It moves from house to house, with each family pinning money to the statue and serving nibbles and drinks. When it’s time to move on, a firework with a loud bang is launched from a belt worn by one of the locals!”

Even without fiestas, simple routines like a paseo (evening stroll) connect neighbours:

“It isn’t quite like in town, where the paseo is all perfume and smart clothes. In el campo, it’s shorts and trainers along the track – but it’s still a lovely way to meet people and get to know what’s going on in the neighbourhood.”

Food, gardens, and the joy of simple living

Rural life comes with its own delicious rewards.

“We’ve been given vegetables, tomatoes, capers and olive oil – very colourful and utterly delicious! It’s a good thing I like cooking, and I’m trying lots of new recipes.”

Hilary and Marijke also embraced gardening – with a few mishaps:

“Last year was immensely dry, and so there was nothing left for the poor rabbits to eat, apart from all those succulent green shoots that Hilary had planted in our garden. What happened was simple: planted one day, eaten the next.”

Over time, the garden became a source of pride and local connection, as they learned which Mediterranean plants thrive and which UK imports struggle in the heat.

Reflections on a year in rural Spain

Life in rural Andalucía is not for everyone – it’s slower, quieter, and sometimes inconvenient. But for Marijke, it’s been life-changing.

“My new life will be about taking time to do things, reflect, read and learn new skills… I’m certainly enjoying the slow transition from holiday to normality, and hope that we manage to keep an element of holiday feeling in everyday life.”

If you dream of wide skies, friendly neighbours, and a lifestyle that’s more mañana than Monday morning commute, rural Spain might just be your perfect fit.