What's it like to live in Dénia?

It's perfect for holidays, but what's it like to live in Dénia year-round? Overall, this historic city is incredibly liveable: the compact destination serves up bite-sized offerings of history, culture, countryside, and coast. Traditional events and dishes are fiercely guarded, and in recent years the town has become more cosmopolitan. Today, traditional tabernas sit happily alongside modern wine bars and brunch joints. Locals kick off the day with a locally-roasted coffee and a squidgy cinnamon bun from Niki & Niki. The chic café and bakery is located near the port, so it pairs brilliantly with a seaside walk to blow out the cobwebs.

Outdoorsy folks thrive in Dénia – there are glorious bike routes and craggy coastlines to explore. After breakfast, folks get peddling along the Vía Verde de Dénia, an old train line converted into a walking and bike path scented with orange blossom. After jaunt into the fields, head east to towards the sparkling sea, which is usually dotted with Stand Up Paddleboards and kayaks. The coastline just outside of the city centre is made up of secluded pebbly coves and laid-back bars with terraces that look out over the waves. There are walking routes which trace lines up the impressive Montgó mountain and give splendid views over the city.

People living in Dénia are never short of good food. On the fine dining side, Quique Dacosta Restaurante serves exquisite three Michelin-starred tasting menus (the crispy socarrat on the rice is legendary). Further away from the well-worn path, the former Michelin-starred chef Miquel Ruiz set up his no-frills taberna, El Baret de Miquel. Here, he makes top-notch food more accessible and relaxed – it's a charming place and seats get snapped up months in advance.   

Living in Dénia: essential information

Despite a declining birth rate, the population of Dénia is growing – a testament to the magnetic pull of the city. According to ine.es, In 2022 there were 43,899 people living in Dénia, and in 2023 that rose to 45,893. 69% of the population is Spanish, and the other predominant nationalities include Colombian, German and British. Most of the residents are aged between 40 and 60 years old. 

Healthcare in Dénia

Public healthcare in Spain has an excellent reputation. There are four health centres (centros de salud) in Dénia, each one offering localised and non-emergency care to the surrounding community. Hospital de Dénia is a five-minute bus journey from the city centre. It features everything from operating theatres to specialists in allergology. The easy-to-reach hospital will hopefully mean that healthcare needn't be a deciding factor on where to live in Dénia. Check out our guide to healthcare in Spain for more information. 
 

Working in Dénia

Popular with tourists, awash with businesses and boasting a large port, there are plenty of jobs going in Dénia. The Costa Blanca Forum has a careers section where individuals post adverts along the lines of private tutors, cleaners and boat mechanics. Check infojobs.net for port-based jobs, like project managers and technical inspectors. For hospitality and tourism turn to turijobs.com, where waiter and bartender vacancies feature heavily. Looking for more in-depth guidance on finding a job in Spain? Read our full guide on finding a job in Spain for all the ins and outs, including top tips and networking advice.  

Freelancers can log on lightning-quick with the 168 mbps internet, according to Fair Internet Report. And if working from home isn't your bag, try one of the co-working centres. Knowhere offers bright shared spaces, printing facilities and discounts for co-workers, while Zinq features clean-lined meeting rooms and access until 10pm. Spain's Digital Nomad Visa is an initiative aimed at remote workers. It's available to self-employed people and their families, as long as the applicant meets certain requirements, like having at least three years of experience and a university degree in the chosen field of work.

Hoping to set up your own business? Entrepreneurs should investigate the Spanish Chamber of Commerce for events, training sessions and advice on setting up a business in Spain.

Schools and Education in Dénia

Moving to Dénia with little people in tow? Great news: there is a generous selection of schools to choose from, with some excellent public and private establishments. Among the best public school options are Colegio Cervantes and Colegio Comarcal Raquel Paya, which has a focus on sustainability and diversity.

There are three concertados in the city, too. Concertados are semi-private schools which receive government funding and families also pay a fee. These schools have the freedom to choose their curriculum, are usually Catholic, and often offer better extra-curricular activities and materials than public schools. Colegio San Juan Bautista, for instance, has top reviews, is centrally located, and offers extracurricular activities such as painting, ballet and volleyball.  

A 40-minute drive away is Lady Elizabeth School, a private school which teaches children from ages 3-18. It follows the British curriculum and is taught entirely in English by native English speakers.

Transport in Dénia

Dénia is known as the gateway to the Balearics, and lots of people pause here before catching the ferry to Ibiza or Mallorca. It takes two hours to sail from Dénia to Ibiza and it costs from €66 – the ticket includes one car and a reserved seat. There are cabins on board for longer, overnight journeys.

The only train in Dénia is a small, scenic route which follows the coast south west, stopping at several picturesque seaside towns including Calpe and Altea. For longer journeys, there are buses that run regularly from the bus station. It takes around two hours to get to Valencia, and one hour 30 minutes to Alicante.  

Drivers will have a ball exploring the area by car: there are tucked-away coves and pretty hilltop villages to discover. If a car is the option you decide to go for, check out our guidance on driving in Spain with a UK licence. 

Things to do in Dénia

Explore the port

The neighbourhood near the port is called Baix la Mar, a lovely zone that's one of the liveliest parts of town. Here, narrow lanes lined with old fishermen's houses now host chic bars and restaurants. Els Magazinos is a colourful, open-air food market with dozens of different dining options, from ocean-fresh seafood to Argentinian-style charred steak. Complete the port experience with a visit to La Lonja to watch boats unload their catch between 4pm and 6pm, and walk to the far side of the port for a terrific view of the castle.

Clamber up the castle

The castle is central Dénia, both in location and culture. For just €3 you can charge around the expansive site, including the breathtaking top tier which is frequented by seagulls and doves – they perch on rocky walls and stare out Ibiza on clear days. Pause at the restaurant to refuel with a cortado and poke your head into the ancient prison cells to see 18th-century prisoner graffiti.

Paddle in kayaks

There are some fabulous kayaking tours departing from the bays. Join KayakJavea on a jaunt into the deep blue. The half-day route takes in pirate caves and Cova Tallada, a man-made cavern chiselled into the rock face in the 12th Century. It stretches deep into the earth, with pitch-black chambers linked by sandy, sloped tunnels. Tour guide Carlos navigates the dark tunnels expertly, before dishing out snorkels and encouraging everyone to spot fish in the clear blue sea.  

Eat amazing seafood

Dénia is well known for its exquisite seafood; it's one of only two towns in Spain to be named City of Gastronomy by UNESCO (Burgos is the other). Particularly sought-after is the gamba roja (red prawn). You'll spot this  tender and salty-sweet critter on menus costing €100 per kilo upwards. Restaurante El Farallo is the place to scoff them. Waiters deliver plates piled high with cherry-red prawns, trailing with long antennae.

Sunbathe on secluded coves

Just a 30-minute drive from Dénia are the fairytale coves of Cala Blanca and Cala de Dins. They are accessible only by foot, follow the rugged path up and around the white marlstone rocks. Cala Blanca is a small horseshoe-shaped pool with turquoise water. Continue to Cala de Dins. The sheltered location makes it secluded and incredibly peaceful. At sunset locals like to sit along the rocky outcrop to watch the sky turn peachy-pink.

Drink excellent wine 

Dénia has some gorgeous wine bars, make a night of it and potter around the best. Niki & Niki serve organic bottles on its quiet terrace in the evening. Bodega Casa Benjamin is a 100-year-old wine bar with upturned barrels for tables and heaps of charm. Bodegas Galiana Dénia is a deli by day and a wine bar by night. Pull up a stool and order locally-made cava and nibbles from the shelves. 

Take a hike 

There are handsome coastlines on Dénia's doorstep, and the walking routes are easy to reach. Just 15 minutes by bus gets you to the visitors centre of Montgó Nature Reserve (Centro de Interpretación del Parque Natural del Montgó). From here, you'll find everything you need to explore the surrounding area, from walking routes to personalised advice (the walk to Cova Tallada is particularly beautiful). 

Shop in the local market 

The 1950's functionalist building of Mercat de Dénia isn't particularly beautiful, but the produce inside is glorious. Join the locals with their shopping trollies and stock up on field-fresh tomatoes, shiny peppers and shimmering pink prawns. Don't miss the focaccia from the bakery and finish with a coffee and a chinwag at the caf. Also check out Els Magazinos market, a lively food court full of restaurants, bars and market stalls where you can enjoy the best local produce.

Expat clubs and activities in Dénia

With such a vibrant expat community, Dénia will hold lots of opportunities to meet fellow locals. Meet new friends and brush up on your Spanish at the Dénia Language Exchange. It's free, and the group meets every Wednesday at the cosy culture hub Códigos del Arte.

15 minutes outside of the city centre, yoga and energy-healing expert Ann Leese holds weekly Qigong meetups in English. Classes take place on a pretty wooden deck in the countryside and aim to unleash inner energy while building strength and flexibility. A 40-minute drive away in the postcard-perfect town of Altea, local artist Inta Leora hosts beginner oil painting workshops in English from her studio. The series explains the basics of creating masterpieces, including colour theory, composition and brushwork.

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