What's it like to live in Oliva?

People visit Oliva to breathe in the salty sea air and prioritise life's everyday luxuries. Simple pleasures like doing the weekly shop are taken very seriously indeed. It's a leisurely activity in Mercado Municipal, where stallholders chatter with loyal customers over pyramids of perfectly arranged tomatoes. Outside, narrow streets are dotted with cafés, bakeries and wine bars – everything you'd need for a laid-back weekend. On Sundays, the roads are filled with the sound of church bells pealing, like the 16th century Parròquia Sant Roc (peep inside for the most staggering frescoes on the cupola).

From the centre it's around a 30-minute walk to the beach, an enjoyable stroll along a reed-lined path which follows the canal. It's also perfectly flat, which makes the 7-minute bike ride a doddle. Look out for quacking ducklings and orange groves along the way. The beach is a real show-stopper, a vast stretch of pale silky sand backed by bushy dunes. Open-air yoga classes often take place here, while out at sea people enjoy sailing and fishing. Watch the sunset from one of the sea-front bars, where the only noise is the hushed swell of the sea and the clinking of ice in a gin and tonic. 

Living in Oliva: essential information

In 2023, Oliva had a population of 25,558, according to ine.es. Of this, 20% were foreigners, who had chosen to settle in this seaside haven. Walking through the lively streets of Oliva, it's easy to see that it draws residents from around the world. Sitting on a sunny terrace you might hear English, French and German – although the majority will be Valencian. The average age of people living in Oliva is around 44 years.

Healthcare in Oliva

The nearest hospital is currently Hospital Francesc de Borja. Open since 1973 it has grown immensely, now offering well-rounded services with eight operating rooms and 292 beds. It specialises in cardiology, rehabilitation, radiotherapy and oncology. The hospital is based in Gandia, around a 16-minute drive from Oliva.

There is one local healthcare centre (centro de salud) in the north of the town, however there is a more central one under construction. The Centro de Salud Sant Francesc de Oliva is a €4 million project due to be completed later in 2024. The new centre will have an extended area for paediatrics, a social worker and female healthcare. Check out our guide for more information on healthcare in Spain.

Working in Oliva

Finding a job in Oliva may well be a priority. As the lush farmland around the town attests, a large number of people here work in agriculture, whether that's farming, logistics or packaging goods up for sale. The other main focus is tourism - perfect for those looking to move to Oliva who don't speak Spanish fluently.

Jooble often lists hotel vacancies, like porters, waiters and receptionists, while Jobtoday also lists work required in big hospitality groups in and around the town. Milanuncios is the place to go for independent adverts from small local businesses. Entrepreneurs should investigate the Spanish Chamber of Commerce for events, training sessions and advice on setting up a business in Spain.

Working remotely? Oliva has 12 internet hotspots where anyone can access free wifi. It means you can work with a cortado from Café Oliva or even with a tub of strawberry ice cream from ⁦Antiu Xixona Estació⁩. The internet speed is generally good, up to 139 Mbps with Telefonica de España according to fairinternetreport.com. Just a 17-minute drive away, Gandia has a more permanent remote working solution. Gandia Coworking is open 24 hours a day with blazing-fast wifi, a mini kitchen and free printing. Remote workers should also look into Spain's Digital Nomad Visa. It's available to self-employed people and their families, as long as they meet certain prerequisites such as earning at least €2140 monthly.

Schools and Education in Oliva

Considering living in Oliva with little ones? Finding the right school will likely be at the top of your to-do list, and might impact your decision on where to live in Oliva. Luckily, there is a small but good-quality selection of schools, including public and private education.

There are two schools for ages 0-3 years, six primary schools and two private concertados. Concertados are semi-private schools that receive government funding and families also pay a fee. These schools have the freedom to choose their curriculum, are usually Catholic, and might offer better extra-curricular activities or materials (depending on the school) than public schools.

The schools in the area are widely well-regarded. In fact, Colegio Santa Anna - a free public school - was voted among the best in Valencia. Based in a large, modern building just on the edge of the old town, this complex teaches in English, Spanish and Valencian. It has a focus on diversity while staying rooted in the local barrio.  

It's also worth checking the Citizen Services section on the department of education for up-to-date grants, aids and subsidies.

Transport in Oliva

Oliva isn't famed for its public transport. Sustainable and efficient, a bicycle is an excellent option. It's a popular choice for locals, some of whom go for the electric option for extra comfort. For drivers, the roads are generally quiet and easy to navigate. If a car is the option you decide to go for, check out our guidance on driving with a UK licence.

Further afield, buses run regularly from Valencia to Oliva, it takes around 1 hour 30 minutes and costs from as little as €9 with Alsa. It takes around the same time to get to Dénia by bus and costs around €12.  

Things to do in Oliva

Celebrate at local festivals

During the festival of Moros y Cristianos the noise of brass bands and the aroma of puchero stew fills the town. Locals put their chairs out on the streets to watch the parades which continue deep into the night. It's a joyous time to be in Oliva, and the sense of community and history resonates in the streets. Don't miss the noche de puchero, when the entire town enjoys the Valencian dish made with slow-cooked vegetables, chicken and beef.

Dive into Font Salada

A 20-minute bike ride from Oliva, Font Salada is a hush-hush natural swimming hole. People come to this picturesque thermal spring year-round to bathe in 21C water – just don't forget your booties to protect toes from the rocky base. It's incredibly civilised for a natural swimming spot, with a restaurant serving cold beers and paella to swimmers post-dip.

Shop in the local market

Oliva's Mercado Municipal is excellent any morning of the week, but what people really look forward to is Mercado de los Viernes, when the stalls and traders spill out onto the streets with seasonal fruit, vegetables, flowers and clothes. Inside, there's a busy bar that's popular for its almuerzos. Take a seat here and listen to the traders haggling over fresh clotxinas.  

Dine in charming restaurants

For a petite town, Oliva is blessed with some wonderful restaurants. Ca Fran is arguably the best, famed for its enormous wood-fired oven which is used to cook around 90% of the dishes on the menu. Inside, groups of friends toast over blackened terracotta pots filled with traditional stews, like arroz meloso (rice broth) made with rabbit, artichokes and seasonal mushrooms, hearty arroz al horno, or wide pans of Valencian paella with a golden-brown socarrat.    

Over by the beach, Pizzería & Restaurante Mandala is where couples cosy up on the seafront terrace and share a tiramisú, and families share pizzas before letting kids loose on the sugary sand.

The port is another solid option for dining – and not as exclusive as it first appears. El Nàutic Restaurant is within the marina, and open to the public for lunch and dinner. Kids are welcome – they even make special seafood rice with shelled prawns for little people. Don't miss the sour cherry and macadamia nut ice cream.

Relax in the spa

The luxury Oliva Nova has an outstanding spa, and it's not just for hotel guests. The golf resort offers day, week and monthly passes to its high-tech pool and fitness centre. A 10-minute drive from Oliva town centre, the spa promises to soothe visitors with a heated pool, sauna and waterfalls.

Practise yoga on the beach  

Lots of people enjoy rolling out thier yoga mat on the beach for some seaside sun salutations. For structured yoga classes head to nearby Gandia, where Meraki Yoga leads vinyasa flows on warm Sunday mornings next to the waves.

Keep an eye on Suniai Oliva, a blissful yoga centre, for dreamy day retreats with plant-based cooking, journaling sessions and energising vinyasa yoga.

Play golf

Oliva Nova is a fabulous place to play golf. Count on 18 holes designed by the late Spanish golfing legend Severiano Ballesteros. Beginners can brush up on their strike with one-to-one classes while keen golfers can launch straight into the action. Join the Oliva Nova golf club to get reduced rates, with cheaper options for couples and children. 

Learn to sail

The port in Oliva is a community effort, taking root in the 1970s when residents began to dream of a yacht club in the face of a ban on mooring boats. After years of fundraising and campaigning the club launched in 1976, and ever since has been a thriving hub of sailing, swimming and watersports. Club Náutico Oliva's sailing school is open to young people from the age of six, while other classes include rowing and standup paddleboarding. Various events, like regattas and fitness classes in the picturesque sea-facing pool are a wonderful way to meet ocean-loving locals. 

Expat clubs and activities in Oliva

You might ask yourself: what's it like to live in Oliva as a person who doesn't speak fluent Spanish? Well, with such a buzzy expat community in a compact town, it's easy to meet friendly folks who speak English at local bars and restaurants. For a little extra help, try organised events like the language exchange in nearby Dénia, listed on meetup.com. Oliva Women's Network is a social group for English-speaking women living in Oliva to make new friends, while Oliva Men's Group is a relaxed social network aimed at English-speaking LGBTQ+ people. Or fulfil your dreams of being in a band by joining Quedamos a Tocar, a multilingual jam group that regularly meets in Gandia to sing, play instruments and have a merry old time. 

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